No, it’s not a contradiction in terms. Kiwi’s may claim credit for all innovation in the Antipodes - as well as all classiness, perhaps. But we must admit a certain regard for what’s happening now in Aussie wine, where a long history is becoming a formidable support to some super-smart, up-to-date ideas. Flourishing artisan producers like Ben Glaetzer, Kalleske and Byron and Harold are raising Australia’s celebrated and satisfying styles to an all new level of brightness, harmony and sheer sophistication.