Greece

It is ironic that Europe’s most ancient country is now frantically modernising. But it provides an interesting spectacle, as ancient Greek traditions like resin-infused Retsina survive alongside plantings of international varieties like Chardonnay. But the real interest lies (as it does in Portugal, Campania and Sicily) in ancient localities and hitherto obscure local grapes like Assyrtiko, Agiorgitko and Xinomavro. With the benefit of clean modern winemaking, these grapes are not only offering new flavours and textures but also revealing a terrior that is literally the stuff of wine legend.