It’s ironic that Europe’s most ancient country is modernising frantically to catch up. But it provides an interesting spectacle, as ancient Greek traditions like resin-infused Retsina survive alongside desperate plantings of international varieties like Chardonnay. But the real interest lies - as it currently does in Portugal, Campania and Sicily - in ancient localities and hitherto obscure local grapes like Assirtiko, Agiorgitko and Xynomavro which, with the benefit of clean modern winemaking, are not only offering new flavours and textures but also revealing a terrior that is, so to speak, literally the stuff of wine legend. 


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