Spain’s wine history goes back 3000 years. It is home to some of Europe’s most revered traditions, such as the classic wines of Rioja and Jerez (Sherry). But being a large and economically diverse country full of local traditions and old vines, smart buyers can unearth serious options at the value end: from insanely cheap rustic gems to super-smart modern wines offering clean, lush flavours and uber-cool front labels designed to impress the world but to confound, apparently, our poor old traditionalists.