If Muscat’s wines are not always distinguished, they are many. An ancient grape - among the oldest, some say - it’s genetic variants and travels are complex and widespread from the Middle East to more contemporary homes around the Western Mediterranean and even the New World. Noted for a floral aromatic or ‘musque’, rare dry whites from Muscat have subtle peach, citrus and even grape characters (oddly the only wine grape that does!). More compelling expressions intensify these neutral flavours using sweetness and/or fortification. Dessert wines like France’s Muscat de Beaumes de Venise and Spain’s Moscatel use both, while in Italy’s Moscato d’Asti the variety makes delicious sweet sparklers with charmingly defined, aromatic fruit.