2022 Donnhoff Kreuznacher Kahlenberg EL Riesling Trocken
Grape
Riesling
Its Origins
Hailed by the likes of Robert Parker and Hugh Johnson and named Gault Millau Winemaker of the Year in 1999, Helmut Donnhoff is regarded in German Riesling circles as a super-star. And if you’re thinking that term is somehow an oxymoron, you’d probably find Helmut agrees. With the affable humility and deep deference to his vineyards of someone whose family have been making wine since 1750, Donnhoff believes that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality, it can only retain the available quality.” Wine is made in the vineyard, and from taking the helm in 1971 to the present day Helmut has grown the family holdings from 4 hectares to a still modest 20 hectares of lovingly managed vineyards. 80% of these are Riesling (many of them Erste Lage or Grand Cru) with the other 20%, reflecting Nahe’s less austere climates and more mixed clay and volcanic soils, given to Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. But Riesling is king, with Helmut Donnhoff’s many classics from the steeper slate soils having themselves played a prominent role, over the last forty years, in formalising Nahe’s reputation as Germany’s third region for consistently premium and Grand Cru wines.
What The Critics Say
94/100 JamesSuckling.com, Stuart Piggott
“Very old vineyards on a hillside, 500 meters away from the river. Gravel and quartzite with light porphyry content. Kreuznach ripens a little earlier than the middle Nahe, about a week earlier. For a bone-dry riesling this has a stunning juiciness that is hard to resist. The spot-on balance of fruit, moderate alcohol and lively acidity makes you want to dance for joy! Wide spectrum of stone and citrus fruits. Then comes the very long and elegant finish that pulls you back for more. Drink or hold."
17+/20 JancisRobinson.com, Paula Sidore
"Filigreed and ripe stone fruit, young pineapple, orange blossom. An elegant mineral concentration carries the broad and citrus-laced palate. Deep and refined saline precision that is beautiful now and for many years to come. (PS)." Drink 2024 – 2030
94-96/100 Heiner Lobenberg
"Lobenberg: Very old vineyards on a hillside, 500 meters away from the river. Gravel and quartzite with light porphyry content. Kreuznach ripens a little earlier than the middle Nahe, about a week earlier. The wines from Kreuznach are somewhat reminiscent of Rheinhessen in style, are not so extremely barren, a little more sociable in style. The fruit is a little fuller, a little redder, has a lot of grapefruit and red lemon, a few yellow blossoms. The mouth is deliciously juicy, dense and so stimulating and clear. The mouth has a lot of nectarine and is repeatedly flanked by grapefruit. Really salty spiciness alongside the nice density, which you couldn't find that often in 2022. A cool Riesling with a fine structure, nice grip and firm. Despite its warmer location, the Kahlenberg always has a certain rocky stability and so much grip. The tongue rolls in warm grapefruit, pulls and tenses. Great material, sophisticated, but also with a juicy melt. But definitely a brilliant Riesling."
| Variety | Riesling |
|---|---|
| Region | Nahe |
| Closure | Cork |
| Volume | 750ml |
| Alcohol | 12.50% |
| Maturity | 2024 - 2045 |
This Wine Goes Well With
Taste
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