2022 Donnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Dry GG

97 Points Antonio Galloni's Vinous
In stock
A powerful dry Riesling from a top site in the Donnhoff range. This 'Grosses Gewachs' or 'Grand Cru' comes from the vineyard Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg. Here a slate outcrop of volcanic igneous rock creates arid conditions that are perfect for premium fruit concentration, while giving the mineral richness for incredibly complex, flinty aromatics. A wonderful wine, this will drink well very soon but improve for a good while in cellar.
$120.00 in mixed 6+ or $135.00 per bottle

Grape

Riesling

Its Origins

Hailed by the likes of Robert Parker and Hugh Johnson and named Gault Millau Winemaker of the Year in 1999, Helmut Donnhoff is regarded in German Riesling circles as a super-star. And if you’re thinking that term is somehow an oxymoron, you’d probably find Helmut agrees. With the affable humility and deep deference to his vineyards of someone whose family have been making wine since 1750, Donnhoff believes that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality, it can only retain the available quality.” Wine is made in the vineyard, and from taking the helm in 1971 to the present Helmut has grown the family holdings from 4 hectares to a still modest 20 hectares of lovingly managed vineyards. 80% of which are Rielsing (many of them Erste Lage or Grand Cru) with the other 20%, reflecting Nahe’s less austere climates and more mixed clay and volcanic soils, given to Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. But Riesling is king, with Helmut Donnhoff’s many classics from the steeper slate soils having themselves played a prominent role, over the last forty years, in formalising Nahe’s reputation as Germany’s third region for consistently premium and Grand Cru wines.

What The Critics Say

95-97/100 Vinous, Anne Krebiehl MW

"The 2022 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Felsentürmchen Grosses Gewächs is from a steep site of volcanic origin with porphyry and melaphyr. A touch of yeastiness still plays on the shy, tentative nose. The palate comes in with stony saltiness, a tingling sense of juicy lemon intensifying the salty impression even more. Great concentration aligns with lightness and energetic linearity. The bright acidity has a serene luminosity and ripe yet crystal clear smoothness that seems to stretch away into eternity, lighting the way, gliding along, dynamic, optimistic, promising and full of light. (Bone-dry)." Drink 2027 - 2050

97-98/100 Heiner Lobenberg

"Dönnhoff calls it "Felsentürmchen" after its name and this little tower is really in the middle of the vineyard. But it is of course the official site Felsenberg. The soil is purist, stony, volcanic, hard with weathering overlay and up to 60 percent slope. Orientation south, southwest. There are only about 35 hectoliters per hectare yield. The average vine age is just under 40 years. Tim Fröhlich has the identical large vineyard somewhat flatter and closer to the river. There are two true masters cavorting in a very purist, rocky, stony site. The Felsenberg, as the name suggests, is pure rock. Hardly any wine on the Nahe tastes so much of rock, dust and boulders. Dönnhoff's part stretches more steeply up the hill, consisting of several paired cells that sit directly in the middle of the site and a bit further back above Niederthaler Hof. All are pure steep sites. What unites the Felsenberg wines in the end is this purist minerality. This clearly stony impact, this barrenness. Clearly rock flour, almost dusty. The Felsenberg is perhaps the biggest surprise of the vintage because it is so hot and barren, yet there was no drought stress. The purism is incredible, straight, pure, very straightforward, immense grippy grip on the finish. Stony tart, with warming thrust from the structure. One is carried away by this stoniness. The wine has an incredible inner thrust from the middle, pushing over this stark structure, this warm stone wall that rolls towards you on the finish. This is tangible, palpable terroir, drinkable rock. The Felsenberg is certainly not everybody's darling in its barrenness, it also needs time and air, but when it rises, things take off."

95/100 JamesSuckling.com, Stuart Pigott

"Ripe and concentrated, but also quite austere with stacks of spice and grapefruit character; everything from the juice to the pith and zest! A seriously dry riesling, but with moderate acidity. Long crushed rock finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold."

Variety Riesling
Region Nahe
Closure Cork
Volume 750 ml
Maturity 2024 - 2050

This Wine Goes Well With

with CANAPES
with PORK
with SEAFOOD

Taste

3

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