2022 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese
Grape
Riesling
Its Origins
Hailed by the likes of Robert Parker and Hugh Johnson and named Gault Millau Winemaker of the Year in 1999, Helmut Donnhoff is regarded in German Riesling circles as a super-star. And if you’re thinking that term is somehow an oxymoron, you’d probably find Helmut agrees. With the affable humility and deep deference to his vineyards of someone whose family have been making wine since 1750, Donnhoff believes that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality, it can only retain the available quality.” Wine is made in the vineyard, and from taking the helm in 1971 to the present day Helmut has grown the family holdings from 4 hectares to a still modest 20 hectares of lovingly managed vineyards. 80% of these are Riesling (many of them Erste Lage or Grand Cru) with the other 20%, reflecting Nahe’s less austere climates and more mixed clay and volcanic soils, given to Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. But Riesling is king, with Helmut Donnhoff’s many classics from the steeper slate soils having themselves played a prominent role, over the last forty years, in formalising Nahe’s reputation as Germany’s third region for consistently premium and Grand Cru wines.
What The Critics Say
97/100 JamesSuckling.com, Stuart Pigott
"A great Spatlese that has deep apricot and mandarin orange fruit with delicate mint and tarragon aromas. Staggering vitality and brilliance on the extremely focused and precise palate. Enormous wet stone character at the super-long finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold."
98+/100 Heiner Lobenberg
"The Spätlese is made from green-yellow berries that still retain that tight acid structure. Cornelius is primarily concerned with maximum freshness at physiological ripeness. The grapes must still have elasticity. The Brucke is not a steep slope, so the exposure is lower, in addition, close to the river, here it cools down at night, the acidity remains higher. Spätlese, Auslese and GG are harvested together, only manually then selected into the individual qualities. All in one day, which is almost only possible in the Brucke. The Brucke is a little more light-footed next to the Herrmannshöhle, which is certainly a little more profound, both from the soils and in the wine style. It actually has a cabinet wine style. The Brucke is a bit more backward, never loud, although it usually has a small amount of botrytis. But the botrytis comes from humidity in the air, not so much from rain. This is a fine, crystalline nose. So fine and dancing, the whole is well buffered by the ever so slightly higher acidity. Quite clear on the nose, already hinting at some concentration for a Spätlese, yet crystalline as the Brucke is, it does very well with botrytis. Intense fruit of yellow pear, mango and passion fruit, blossom honey. Smells a bit like the top Middle Mosel sites, like Wehlen. That zesty exoticism that then carries over into the mouth. This deliciously vibrant, juicy dense passion fruit with the crisp acidity. Has a bit more punch and opulence than last year, which was probably due to the brute acidity of 2021. Here we are silkier, creamier and denser, with such delicate, dense fruit. There is something wild and mysterious about the Brucke that no other Spätlese at Dönnhoffs has."
| Variety | Riesling |
|---|---|
| Region | Nahe |
| Closure | Cork |
| Volume | 750 ml |
| Alcohol | 8.00% |
| Maturity | 2026 - 2055 |
This Wine Goes Well With
Taste
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