For many tasters, these are the Ne Plus Ultra of Mosel wine, and they have attracted an almost religious following. This small 4 hectare Mosel wine estate commands a well deserved reputation for producing consistently excellent, fine wines. The philosophy of Willi Schaefer and his son, Christoph, is simple – they aim to make their wines as gently as possible, treating the fruit, must and resultant wines with respect. As such, all their wines are treated in exactly the same way in the vineyard and the winery, from QbA to QmP. In the vineyard there is a meticulous attention to detail and all practices are carried out by hand. The emphasis is placed on healthy, balanced vines producing healthy, balanced fruit. The personality of the vineyards comes through the final wine with clarity and precision. In Himmelreich the fruit is to the forefront and the minerality is less overt, so the wines usually convey a sense of accessibility and immediate pleasure. That said they are no slouches when it comes to ageing capacity. The Domprobst displays more overt slate notes, with earthy minerality dominating and a more obviously linear form that clearly needs time to show its full potential. These opposing vinous characters owe their personalities to the soils on which they are grown. The deep, grey-blue Devonian slate soil that they share embodies subtle differences at each site. In Himmelreich it is lighter in texture and structure, whereas in Domprobst there is more shale and stone.
What The Critics Say
93/100 View From the Cellar, John Gillman
"The 2018 Kabinett from the Domprobst is an absolute classic in the making. As is
customary with wines from this great terroir, this is more reserved in profile than the
Himmelreich Kabinett, but it is going to have a long and beautiful life ahead of it. The bouquet
wafts from the glass in a youthful blend of pear, tangerine, a salty base of slate, citrus peel,
gentle smokiness and a whisper of wild yeasts in the upper register. On the palate the wine is
pure, medium-full, crisp and complex, with lovely transparency and grip, fien acids and a long,
vibrant and filigreed finish. First class Kabinett." Drink 2025 - 2065
17/20 JancisRobinson.com, Julia Harding
"This smells deeper and a little more savoury than his Graacher Himmelreich, a greater sense of underground minerality. So complex even in youth. Both intense and full of energy, lively, harmonious and yet with a wild streak of adventure, more piercing at the very end. Very persistent and VGV. (JH)" Drink 2020 - 2028
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