For many tasters, these are the Ne Plus Ultra of Mosel wine, and they have attracted an almost religious following. This small 4 hectare Mosel wine estate commands a well deserved reputation for producing consistently excellent, fine wines. The philosophy of Willi Schaefer and his son, Christoph, is simple – they aim to make their wines as gently as possible, treating the fruit, must and resultant wines with respect. As such, all their wines are treated in exactly the same way in the vineyard and the winery, from QbA to QmP. In the vineyard there is a meticulous attention to detail and all practices are carried out by hand. The emphasis is placed on healthy, balanced vines producing healthy, balanced fruit. The personality of the vineyards comes through the final wine with clarity and precision. In Himmelreich the fruit is to the forefront and the minerality is less overt, so the wines usually convey a sense of accessibility and immediate pleasure. That said they are no slouches when it comes to ageing capacity. The Domprobst displays more overt slate notes, with earthy minerality dominating and a more obviously linear form that clearly needs time to show its full potential. These opposing vinous characters owe their personalities to the soils on which they are grown. The deep, grey-blue Devonian slate soil that they share embodies subtle differences at each site. In Himmelreich it is lighter in texture and structure, whereas in Domprobst there is more shale and stone.
What The Critics Say
"Very different aroma from the Graacher Himmelreich, even a hint of honey. But mostly a herbal, stony finesse that just smells of mountain air. Generously fruity in the mouth, the sweetness is felt but is in fine balance with the acidity. GV (JH)" Drink 2018 - 2028
94+/100 View from the Cellar, John Gillman (2015 vintage)
"The 2015 Domprobst Kabinett is also outstanding and is showing simply gorgeous fruit out of the blocks, which is hardly typical of the Domprobst! The bouquet is a lovely mélange of fresh orange, apple, plenty of slate, petrol, citrus zest and a distinctively smoky topnote. ON the palate the wine si deep, medium-full and far more reserved on the palate than the nose suggests (this is the Domprobst after all!), with a fine core, outstanding filigree already in evidence, snappy, perfectly integrated acids and a very long, pure and dancing finish. This too will be tremendous." Drink 2022 - 2050
92/100 Parker's Wine Advocate, Stephan Reinhardt (2015 vintage)
"Schaefer's 2015 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett is, by nature, a bit more reductive than the Himmelreich Kabinett; it shows a clear, fresh and flinty bouquet, still with some sulfur notes. The wine is very piquant, pure and grippy on the palate, well structured and provided with a racy acidity. This is a challenging Riesling with a very good grip and a bit astringent minerality. Keep it for a year or five and enjoy over another decade. It has 7.5% alcohol and 51 grams of residual sugar."
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