2020 Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir

95 Points Richard Caro
In stock
A complex and savoury Pinot Noir from a famous biodynamic estate in Waipara. This wine is the companion of the Angel Flower, and comes from another (in this case east-facing) site in the hillsides around the winery. With darkish ripe fruit layered with earthy and herbal elements, this is an extremely expressive and complex wine to drink now or over the next few years.
$108.00 in mixed 6+ or $120.00 per bottle

Grape

Pinot Noir

Its Origins

As described in Robert Parker's Wine Advocate by Lisa Perrotti-Brown: "You may think you know New Zealand wines but I can assure you that until you have tasted Pyramid Valley, you have no idea. When I first sampled the earliest releases from this left-of-center producer, I was so drawn to the signature, ground-breaking if, at that time, not altogether flawless wines that I vowed to pay them a visit as soon as possible (which, given their location, is easier said than done). There was a spark of “otherness” about the wines that was so unlike anything else in New Zealand, it was difficult to say if proprietors Mike and Claudia Weersing were geniuses or mad or mad geniuses. I’m still kinda thinking there’s an element of the latter going on here but at least my first visit in 2011 and follow-up visit this year have confirmed to me that they are most definitely wine geniuses. Having searched New Zealand for their ideal plot of land to produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of the very highest quality, the Weersings were tempted by comradery to plant amongst their friends in Central Otago. But it was the unique, clay-limestone soils and scarp slopes near Waikari in North Canterbury that stole their hearts. In 2000 they planted vines in one of New Zealand’s newest and remotest wine regions…so new and remote it still doesn’t really have a name other than “North Canterbury”. Claudia is the biodynamic green-thumb and Mike is the Burgundian trained winemaker in this small-scale, hands-on operation. Everything in the fields and winery is as natural as natural can be and anyone who has followed the wines over the years will know, from tasting if not knowledge, that Mike has tested the boundaries of no / low sulfur additions and now seems to have a knack for adding just-enough to ensure stability without compromising the couples’ ethics. The results speak for themselves: astonishingly good, terroir-expressive wines that will challenge all your preconceptions."

What The Critics Say

Winemaker notes

"Carefully hand sorted, fully destemmed and fermented with yeasts from the vineyard, gently fermented using infusion methods for 21-27 days. Settled in tank before being transferred to French wooden cuves and barrel. Elevage of 18 months, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. Moderate black cherry colour, present and brooding in the glass. A deep, dark feel to the aromas, brooding black cherry and dark plum, pure and comforting, orange, Christmas cake spices, hints of warm, damp forest earth, precise and compelling. Lovely warm, ripe black cherry pastry feel on the palate, open and delicious kept in its place by wonderful savoury, sappy nuances, a hint of charcoal and vanilla; dense and long with no hint of sweetness just immaculate ripeness and the feel of clay and chalk. An iron fist in a velvet glove. Incredible.

98/100 Vinous, Rebecca Gibb MW (2019 vintage)

"The 2019 Pinot Noir Earth Smoke is a complex, intriguing wine that draws you into a labyrinth of aromas and flavors. The sensitive use of oak (older barrels of 1–4 years old) allows the layers of unadulterated fruit to shine through the herbals of rosemary, pine and the exotic cinnamon-like spices. While it's densely concentrated and has a satisfying sense of weight on the mid-palate, the wine’s naturally ebullient energy and acidity are ever present, providing a sense of transparency and freshness; this may have something to do with the high active lime content in the soil. Indeed, there's a distinctly chalky character and a tension on the finish that goes on and on. This is a wine I'd happily drown in."

17.5+/20 JancisRobinson.com, Tamlyn Currin (2019 vintage)

"Full bottle 1,423 g. Certified Demeter biodynamic. Earth Smoke is an expansive, east-facing slope with strong, structured soils that are comparatively high in limestone. The name comes from the nickname given to fumitory, a plant of the poppy family that thrives in this 0.85-ha plot. The fruit for the 2019 was carefully hand-sorted, fully destemmed and spontaneous fermentation. Following 27 to 28 days on skins, the juice was pressed, then settled in tank before being transferred by gravity to French barrels for 16 months. Smells like late-summer roses on the cusp of a heavy summer thunderstorm, hot tar simmering in the heat, black-violet sky towering overhead. Tastes like petrichor, like a lick of rain-wet gravel, like bacon smoke and cranberries rubbed on old platinum. The tannins feel like old stained-glass windows in a stone chapel, bending the light through ruby, azure, emerald, honey lead-laced diamonds. A pin-prick of blood on an earth-stained finger, and someone paused to write a word in charcoal on a cold rock, left a rose petal behind. (TC)."

Variety Pinot Noir
Region Canterbury / Waipara
Closure Cap
Volume 750ml
Maturity 2022 - 2035

This Wine Goes Well With

with DUCK
with LAMB
with PORK

Taste

3

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