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French Reds
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L''Hortus, Southern France, France
Domaine de l'Hortus's dramatic location up against the cliffs of the Hortus and Pic Saint-Loup massifs themselves and offering shallow terraces with exposures ranging from north-facing for whites and Syrah (some propagated from Clape and Verset budwood) to south-facing for Mourvedre (from Tempier), sets it apart from other properties in its sub-appellation, and Languedoc pioneer Jean Orliac brings an unprecedented three decades of familiarity with this rocky realm of scree and iron- and quartzite-rich limestone. The striking timber winery reminds me of California, as does the adventurous and open-minded spirit Orliac and his enthusiastic, family-dominated team bring to their work. Since 2000, the Orliacs have farmed and bottled the fruits of Clos du Prieur (under its own label), a property at Saint-Jean de Bueges in the Terraces du Larazac, similarly situated up against a prominent massif.
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L''Hortus, Southern France, France
"The red l'Hortus 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup Grande Cuvee showcases Orliac's beloved Mourvedre grape (with 40% Syrah and 10% Grenache in support). Tasting the assembled wine from an assortment of barrels, black cherry, violets, iris and fennel typically and alluringly fill the nose, then re-emerge on a creamy palate, with richly ripe fruit flavors possessed of admirable purity, considerable refreshment, and an absence of any superficial sweetness. A faintly resinous woodiness hovered over the lots drawn from new barrels, but the overall effect here is deeply rich and sumptuously polished, with marrow-like savory meatiness, a wine of refined structure and no doubt capable of at least 6-8 years of positive bottle evolution." 92-93+/100 Parker
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Southern France - Other, Southern France, France
75% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache, 5% Cinsault, 10% Carignan. Unfined, unfiltered and oak aged for 18 months this wine will age beautifully especially with a high component of Mourvdre in it and grown in a harsh unforgiving Southern French climate with limestone soils. The wine is bottled by gravity which shows the care and attention to detail that this winery goes through. Very good value for the quality this delivers.
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Vieux Donjon, Rhone Valley, France
We just discovered a few cases of this gem. Now with 4 years of age and still at its original pricing grab this while it lasts. "An estate for connoisseurs with cold cellars, these traditionally made Chateauneuf du Papes rarely strut their stuff until they have been in the bottle for 5-7 years. Moreover, this is one of the few estates that has resisted the current fashion for producing old vine cuvee so all their old fruit goes into one cuvee. "Deep ruby. Smoky cherry and blackcurrant aromas convey a wild, gamey quality, along with suave floral and mineral lift; smells like a northern Rhone wine. Deep dark fruit liqueur and olive flavors are sharpened by zesty minerals and finish with impressive grip and thrust. Combines energy and depth deftly."91-94 Tanzer
"Vieux Donjon's 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape is a powerful, seriously-endowed effort for the vintage, displaying more structure and muscle than most wines in this forward, fruit-friendly year. Classic Provencal characteristics of garrigue, licorice, lavender, pepper, and kirsch soar from the glass of this dark ruby/purple-tinged offering. In the mouth, it is masculine, tannic, medium to full-bodied, and powerfully built. Potentially one of the longest lived wines of the vintage, it will require 4-5 years of bottle age, and should evolve for two decades."90-92 Parker
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Soumade, Rhone Valley, France
This wine is a winner- it flew out the door at Christmas. "Readers who don't think Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon can do well in the Mistral winds and dry heat of the southern Rhone should check out Soumade's offerings. St.-Emilion's guru, Stephane Derenoncourt is the consulting winemaker, which may help explain why these wines are so good. The 2006 Vin de Pays Merlot may be even better than the 2007, an anomaly between these two vintages. This seductive, lush effort reveals sweet black cherry, chocolate, coffee bean, and mocha characteristics. Round, broad, and savory with low acidity, it is best drunk over the next 4-5 years. 89/100 Parker
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Remizieres, Rhone Valley, France
"This is a serious estate given Desmeures's unmanipulative winemaking philosphy that puts as much of an essence of his vineyards into the bottle as anyone." R.Parker. This is 100% shiraz or syrah as the French say- from the Nothern Rhone appellation of Crozes Hermitage.
"Inky ruby. Dark berries and smoky Indian spices on the nose. Juicy, straightforward blackberry and cassis flavors show no rough edges and possess good mineral snap. Precise and brisk on the finish, which strongly repeats the blackberry note. This was raised entirely in large, used barrels." 88-91/100 S. Tanzer
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L''Hortus, Southern France, France
True rose in the sense that it is a light red/orange colour and made from grenache. Lovely light delicate rose petal, cherry, raspberry nose with a restrained, dry finish. "Wedged in the narrow plane between the dramatic peak of Pic St-Loup and the sheer limestone cliffs of Hortus is the Domaine L'Hortus. This is hard graft- one full-timer to help Jean with 33ha and the family pitching in during holidays. The usual quality factors pertain: low yields, longish cuvaisons with a rigorous selection." Remington Norman. "What I find distinctive about Pic-St-Loup wines is that they are substantial without being heavy. They are well balanced and they can be surprisingly sophisticated." Clive Coates. A very elegant style. The ultimate in refreshment.
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Soumade, Rhone Valley, France
This is always a luxurious, elegant, lush and generous wine that never fails to deliver- especially from the fabulous 2007 vintage. The yields at this excellent domaine are always low generally 35 hl/ha ( which is tiny ) for Andres Villages and much less for his super cuvees. The grape mix is mainly Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, with the proportions varying a little each vintage. Maturation of his wine takes place in cement tanks before spending 6 months in a variety of oak. Finally the wines are fined with egg whites but receive no filtration. "Loaded with ripe blackcurrant fruits, spices and a touch of oak. Beautifully made, classy, with great depth and a long silky finish."
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Remizieres, Rhone Valley, France
"Saturated ruby. Powerful scents of dark berries, cherry-cola, licorice, beef jerky and minerals. Dense and chewy, with sweet dark berry and candied licorice flavors, gentle tannins and a jolt of cracked pepper. Gains weight with air and finishes with very good clarity and grip." 89-92/100 Tanzer
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L''Oratoire St Martin, Rhone Valley, France
Domain de l'Oratoire St-Martin is one of the Southern Rhone Valley's most conspicuous overachievers, making wines that are far above their humble appellations. All of their wines go into the bottle with no filtration and only a light fining. This is the type of estate that brings smiles to consumers who happen upon their wines. They are reasonably priced and qualitatively equivalent to wines selling at two or three times the price. This outstanding estate has been making fine wines for nearly as long as I have been writing."R.Parker.
"Composed of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre, and aged in both foudres and 500-liter demi-muids, the 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne Cuvee Prestige is more fruit-driven than its 2006 counterpart. With silky tannins as well as sweet black currant, blackberry, charcoal, roasted herb, and scorched earth notes, this deep, fleshy, lavishly fruity 2007 should drink well for 5-6 years" 90/100 Parker
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