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Gruner Veltliner, or Gru-Vee, as it has been dubbed, is the latest craze- especially in the wine bars of New York. Its Austrias own white variety: although lots of attention has focused on Austrian Riesling, they actually have an awful lot more Gru-Vee planted (by a factor of 10). Now its rightfully regarded as the centrepiece of Austrias wine industry. With its food friendliness, versatility and in many cases a capacity to gain complexity with age, Gruner looks set to gain more friends. Rhubarb, lime, and blond tobacco, combining exuberant brightness with a sense of sweetness born of sheer extract and a flattering creaminess of texture. A vividly scallop-like saline, savory, sweet character worthy of a great Chablis gives this a mineral dimension that will have you shaking your head in wonder even as you return for the next sip.
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