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The Haags’ 2009 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #9 – from the same parcel as the #6 – suggests candied apple and white peach preserves threaded with blood orange, tangerine, vanilla, honey, and malt. A palpable sense of extract, seductively silken texture, and lilting buoyancy make for a memorably diverse and dynamic display that leads to a gloriously long, pure, subtly ennobled, honeyed, yet enervating finish. I would anticipate 30 or more years of high performance.
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Oliver Haag picked from just before mid-October until November 10, and the resulting collection is most notable for stunning quality in its nobly sweet echelons, although the volume of each bottling is small (typically the equivalent of 200-300 full bottles) due to paucity of botrytis. - 95/100 David Schildknecht
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