"The estate's 2004 Barolo Le Coste/Mosconi is a big, fat wine loaded with scorched earth, tar, smoke and dark fruit. Made in a powerful, brooding style, this expansive fruit-driven Barolo isn't the last word on subtlety but it is awfully hard to resist. Parusso owns the vineyards in Le Coste and rents three parcels in Mosconi. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. "92/100 Parker