Viognier is a pretty famous white grape, right? Well, 50 years ago it had almost died out at home in France’s Northern Rhone, but thanks to the loving care of Australian producer Yalumba the grape recovered to become nearly front rank. Viognier’s aromatic nose of honey, herbs, and steely minerals is a touch more restrained than Gewurztraminer but the palate is likewise full-bodied and low acid so capable of a moderately rich, oily texture and typical apricot and peach flavours. France’s expensive Condrieu is the archetype of rich-but-dry Viognier, with more medium-bodied, medium-priced blends coming from the Rhone and single varietals from the Languedoc-Roussillon and New World, notably Australia, America and New Zealand.
One of the best in the country, if not the world, this estate offering from Elephant Hill is consistently superb. We don't know how they do it - but whatever they do, it works. Elegantly ...